Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with locals and travelers equally celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
Recently, UNESCO recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a prestigious group of world cities and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this status, it becomes part of a global network of more than four hundred urban centers across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a driver of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "stands as proof of its profound food heritage and dynamic food ecosystem," as noted by a official from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this coveted list of 70 global destinations worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this historic city is no surprise to its residents or dedicated food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, bustling, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is finally in the limelight for what has always shaped its soul: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a ongoing dialogue from waking up until night in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, perfected, and taken to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were epicenters of culinary innovations, blending Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was invented to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs ground the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just highlights fresh harvests but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on every corner, there are little shops and kiosks – lesser-known treasures that are wildly favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in earthenware cups, along with fluffy buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can make their way to a simple joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also offers unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is precise and complicated. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of however express concern that their younger generation are reluctant to master the craft.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy positions it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is hoped, will encourage more people around the world to discover these tales and visit the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.
